Das große Loch
Die schiere Größe beeindruckt und schockiert gleichermaßen. Das ist es also, das größte Loch Europas. Ich kannte es bisher nur von Bildern. Und wie immer ist das live Erlebnis durch kein Foto zu ersetzen. Was ich sehe, erinnert mich an den Grand Canyon. Die Weite, die Tiefe, die unterschiedlichen Gesteinsschichten. Nur ist der Tagebau Hambach kein spektakuläres Naturphänomen. Er ist eine von Menschenhand in Wälder und Felder hinein gefräste Mondlandschaft. Ein gigantischer Krater, in dem sich riesige Schaufelradbagger seit Jahrzehnten unerbittlich durch die Erde fressen, um unseren Energiehunger zu stillen. Ich fühle mich beim Anblick dieses Teils des Rheinischen Braunkohlereviers sehr klein und unbedeutend. Wie am Rand des Grand Canyons. Wenn auch aus anderen Gründen.
Der Ausstieg aus der klimaschädlichen Kohle ist beschlossen, noch wird um das Timing gerungen. Ebenso wie um den Erhalt einiger Dörfer. Aus dem großen Loch des Tagebau Hambach soll einmal ein großer See werden. Ein Naherholungsgebiet wie die Sophienhöhe. Die ehemalige Abraumhalde ist inzwischen renaturiert. 100 km Wanderwege ziehen sich durch die 13 Quadratkilometer wieder aufgeforstete Fläche. Dass die Natur zurückkommen kann, macht zumindest Hoffnung.
Der Braunkohle mussten neben gewachsenen Naturlandschaften auch ganze Dörfer weichen. Manheim ist einer dieser Orte. Die meisten der Bewohner sind mittlerweile nach “Manheim neu” umgesiedelt. “Manheim alt” ist zu einem Lost Place geworden. Wir parken an der ehemaligen Dorfkirche, die großflächig abgesperrt und deren Fenster mit Brettern vernagelt sind. Sie wurde 2019 mit einem letzten Gottesdienst entweiht. Nur nach einer solchen “Profanierung” können nach katholischem Kirchenrecht die Reliquien anschließend an einen neuen Ort mitgenommen werden. Nach “Manheim neu”, wo nun der Großteil der ehemaligen Bewohner:innen lebt.
In “Manheim alt” geht derweil der Abriß der leerstehenden Häuser weiter. Viele sind bereits komplett abgetragen, von anderen stehen noch traurige Reste. Ein halbes Badezimmer, eine verfallende Werkstatt, eine geschlossene Dorfkneipe. Die Straßen sind verwaist. Mir kommt das Bild vom Heuknäuel, das der Wind in amerikanischen Western gerne mal durch den menschenleeren Ort fegt, in den Sinn. Eine einsame Mülltonne steht an diesem Nachmittag zur Abholung bereit. In dem Haus wohnen Menschen, die sich bisher nicht aus ihrer Heimat haben verdrängen lassen.
Unser letzter Stopp an diesem Tag gilt “Manheim neu”. Ich möchte wissen, wie so ein auf dem Reißbrett geplantes, frisch umgesiedeltes Dorf aussieht. Im Herbst 2020 wurde an vielen Häusern noch gewerkelt. Der Ort fühlte sich noch unfertig an. In der Zwischenzeit ist er sicherlich weiter zusammengewachsen. Den umgesiedelten Menschen ist zu wünschen, dass “Manheim neu” zu einem echten neuen Zuhause wird. Und uns allen, dass mit dem Ausbau der erneuerbaren Energien möglichst viel klimaschädliche Kohle im Boden bleibt.
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